The Person at Whole Foods Who Chooses Our Food

John Lawson vividly recalls the first time a butter-yellow ice cream truck arrived in New Yorks Tribeca in 2008. Ben Van Leeuwen had just started his self-named ice cream brand alongside his brother Pete and then-wife Laura ONeill. At the time, Lawson was managing three Whole Foods Market stores, including the Tribeca location. After trying the ice creams and diving deep into a particular Italian pistachio flavor, he urged Van Leeuwen to bring his creations into grocery retail. Within three months, Van Leeuwens pints were on store shelves. Today, theyre found in over a quarter of supermarkets nationwide.

Lawson now stands among nine buyers responsible for discovering local and emerging brands for more than 500 Whole Foods locations across the United States. With two decades of experience, he possesses an encyclopedic understanding of what attracts shoppersfrom ingredients and packaging to product names and pricing. Grocery buyers like him significantly influence consumer choices, determining what millions of people purchase in over 45,500 supermarkets nationwide. Their decisions can turn obscure brands into household names almost instantly.

One autumn afternoon, I followed Lawson to understand what makes a product shelf-worthy. Our day began at Whole Foods in Gowanus, Brooklyn. From the start, Lawson shared facts about coffee, condiments, tortillas, and hummus, straightening items on the shelves as we walked. He effortlessly recounted the years products launched, their store presence, and national expansions. Its like going to a party, he said. I have to introduce you to all my friends.

For brands outside the giants like Kraft, Heinz, or Coca-Cola, breaking into stores is difficult, and staying there is even tougher. Lawson estimates he receives 50 to 100 cold pitches monthly, but only a few make it. Selecting future winners, he says, is an art, not a science. This discerning eye has introduced local favorites like Family Farmstead Dairy and Jalapa Jar to wider audiences. While data from Nielsen and SPINS informs decisions, personal engagement with founders remains crucial, especially as consumers now have endless shopping options.

Lawson notes that discovering billion-dollar successes like Siete Foods or Poppi is rareonly about 10% of products reach that level. However, he isnt always seeking such unicorns. One of his favorite brands, The White Moustache, produces hand-strained Persian-style yogurt in Brooklyn and has no plans for expansion beyond New York City suburbs. Yet it represents a win for Whole Foods, keeping the store connected to local trends. Lawson takes pride when small brands develop a dedicated following that sustains their business.

During a tour of La Rossi Pizzas Brooklyn Navy Yard facility, Lawson emphasized that earning a buyers attention is crucial. Founder Martina Rossi Kenworthy first approached him at a 2022 Cherry Bombe Jubilee event. Her frozen pizzas impressed Lawson, particularly as a woman-owned brand in a male-dominated industry. Over the next two years, he guided the company on product and packaging adjustments for their in-store launch. Recently, he suggested renaming a pizza from veggie to mushroom cheddar spinach to better appeal to customers.

Lawson routinely travels extensively to suppliers, logging 102,000 miles over three years in his hybrid car. He prefers hands-on visits to understand production processes and advises brands to communicate their products story concisely on packaging. Though he no longer directly manages Van Leeuwens brand, he maintains close ties, visiting their Greenpoint, Brooklyn scoop shop and sampling both released and in-progress flavors while discussing sourcing challenges.

He also explores specialty stores like Kalustyans, where co-owner Aziz Osmani showcased products from over 60 countries. Kalustyans has begun selling its own store-brand sauces, with future chutney lines, which Lawson hopes to bring to Whole Foods.

With thousands of other supermarket buyers in the U.S., discovering truly unique products is challenging. Retail giants now use accelerator programs to mentor and fund emerging brands, helping them secure retail placement. Companies like Chobani and Mars have offered similar programs, fostering early relationships with promising founders. Lawson recently expanded his mentorship role by joining Naturally New Yorks board, connecting food entrepreneurs with industry professionals. At a Jersey City event, he moderated a panel that drew dozens of hopeful founders. David Yu, cofounder of Reprise Health, called him a celebrity, though Lawson prefers to spotlight the brands themselves.

Lawson explained on a later video call, So many of the suppliers in our area are doing amazing things. The opportunity to get out and be in the field is a real privilege in this role.

Author: Sophia Brooks